1983-1993 BMW K1, K100RS, K100, K75 Workshop Repair Manual (Printable, Bookmarked, iPad-ready PDF)

Complete digital workshop owners' repair manual written for the 1983-1993 BMW K1, K100RS, K100, K75 Motorcycle. All styles covered (all models, and engines). It is in the cross-platform PDF document format so that it works like a charm on all kinds of devices.

This QUALITY manual is 100 COMPLETE and INTACT, no MISSING/CORRUPT pages/sections to freak you out! Buy from responsible seller and get INSTANT DOWNLOAD now without wasting your hard-owned money on uncertainty or surprise; this manual is exactly as described.

PRODUCT DETAILS:
Total Pages: 414+236 pages
File Format: PDF (Windows & Mac & Linux)
Language: English German
Delivery: instant download link displayed on checkout page & emailed to you after payment
Protection: DRM-free; without any restriction
Printable: Yes

'83-'89 K100, K75 (EN).pdf
'83-'93 K1, K100RS (DE).pdf

This Owners Workshop Manual was published in 1988. The models covered by the manual are:

BMW K75, 740cc UK January 1987 on
BMW K75C 740cc UK September 1985 on, US February 1986 on
BMW K75S, 740cc UK June 1986 on (including Special, January 1987 on), US September 1986 on
BMW K75T, 740cc US February 1986 on
BMW K100, 987cc UK October 1983 on, US August 1984 on
BMW K100RS, 987cc UK November 1983 on (Including Motorsport Limited Edition of June 1986 and Special, May 1987 on), US August 1984 on
BMWK100RT, 987cc uK and US Agust 1984 on
BMW K100LT, 987cc UK January 1987 on, US September 1986 on


The contents include:

Introductory pages
Engine
Clutch
Gearbox
Cooling System
Fuel System and Lubrication
Ignition System
Frame and Forks
Final Drive and Rear Suspension
Wheels, brakes and tires
Electrical System
Wiring Diagrams
English/American terminology
Conversion Factors
Index.

It measures 8.25 x 10.75 inches (210 x 270 mm) and contains 236 pages.

This COMPLETE official full workshop service repair manual includes:
* Detailed sub-steps expand on repair procedure information
* Notes, cautions and warnings throughout each chapter pinpoint critical information.
* Numbered instructions guide you through every repair procedure step by step.
* Bold figure number help you quickly match illustrations with instructions.
* Detailed illustrations, drawings and photos guide you through every procedure.
* Enlarged inset helps you identify and examine parts in detail.
* Numbered table of contents easy to use so that you can find the information you need fast.
* This manual also makes it easy to diagnose and repair problems with your machines electrical system.
* Troubleshooting and electrical service procedures are combined with detailed wiring diagrams for ease of use.

* COMPLETE, Absolutely No Missing Pages!
* Official Service INFORMATION You Can Count On!
* Customer Satisfaction GUARANTEED!

EXCERPTS:
4 Final drive: refitting
Before refitting the final drive assembly check the swinging arm gaiter is securely fixed and undamaged (especially if signs of water were noted in the swinging arm). Apply a coat of the specified lubricant (See Routine Maintenance) to the drive shaft splines and check that the swinging arm is securely supported at the normal working position.
2 Especially on early 1 00 models, but on any model which has been fitted with a new or different final drive housing or swinging arm, measure the depth of the tapped holes in the final drive housing into which are screwed the retaining bolts; they must be at least 17.5 mm (0.7 in) deep, measured from the joint face. The manufacturing limits of the swinging arm mounting flange thickness were increased and to ensure that the thread length remained sufficient the final drive housing holes were drilled and tapped deeper; longer bolts 45 mm instead of 40 mm were also used. The early swinging arm and final drive housing are identified by the external horizontal cast rib which is 3.5 mm (0.14 in) wide; on modified castings it is 10 mm (0.40 in) wide. To ensure that the bolts are long enough to clamp the housing threads securely but without bottoming in their tapped holes select bolts as follows. If a modified final drive housing is fitted to either type of swinging arm, bolts 45mm long must be used, also if an unmodified final drive housing is fitted to a modified swinging arm; note however that in this latter case the 40mm bolts must be used if the longer bolts bottom in the tapped holes. Obviously if two unmodified (early type) castings are being installed, the 40 mm bolts are required.
3 If water was found in the swinging arm apply a thin coat of sealant to the mating surfaces and check that the two locating dowels are securely fixed in the final drive housing surface. Refit the housing, aligning the drive pinion splines with those of the drive shaft rear end, then push the housing firmly into place. Refit and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque setting.
4 Refit the rear suspension unit to its bottom mounting and tighten the mounting nuts and bolts to the specified torque setting. Remove the swinging arm support.
5 Refit the rear brake components and rear wheel, as described in the relevant Sections of Chapter 9.
6 Press the speedometer impulse transmitter into the final drive housing, ensuring that it does not contact the rotor and that the sealing 0-ring is coated with the specified oil to prevent any risk of damage. Fasten the retaining screw and secure the transmitter lead in the guide
provided.
7 Where necessary, fill the housing with oil as described in Routine Maintenance, then check the oil level. Make a final check that all disturbed components are correctly refitted and fully secured, that the brake is correctly adjusted and working properly and that the rear suspension is working properly. Check also that the rear wheel is free to rotate smoothly and easily before taking the machine out on the
road.